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The undergrowth was very green and Kwamin said black and white Columbus monkeys lived in the trees but I saw no sign of them.

The clay path under our feet wasn’t red as usual in Ghana but a sort of viscous black clay that felt sticky underfoot.

We came to the banks on a lagoon where some narrow pirogues were half drawn up the flat muddy bank. I waded in after it and tentatively lowered myself in the front of the boat.

It rocked steeply to the side letting in a slop brown water, but Kwamin slipped on at the bow with hardly a sound and no splash.

Getting there from the capital Accra meant taking a ride to the industrial city of Takoradi-Sekondi on one of the over-filled minibuses known as tro-tros that serve as the heart of the public transport system in Ghana, and then changing on to a second tro-tro for the last 90 kilometres to a tiny coastal village called Beyin: the gateway to the lagoon in which the stilt village of Nzulelo sits.

Its two passengers staring at us with a mixture of disinterest and mild suspicion as the two vessels slipped by but mumbling apparent greetings in tribal African to Kwamin.

The channel led to a broad river, the Amanzuri, which in turn soon flowed into a large brown lake at the shores of which we got our first glimpse of the stilt village.

It looked tiny in the distant, it`s home to only around 600 people living at close quarters, but as we got closer it looked more impressive and almost South-East Asian looking with a series of large one story buildings jutting out over the still dark water like boat houses at a rowing club.

He picked up a long paddle that had lain near the canoe and started pushing us slowly out across the water.

There was a small lake dotted with water lilies and surrounded by coconut palms and then we cut into a narrow channel through the jungle where thick foliage curled overhead and was reflected in the perfectly still water.

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